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| History
The sea and the estuary have always been of fundamental importance to Bilbao: they have been responsible for most of the city's transformations and developments and have been the true shapers of Bilbao's history. Long ago, Bilbao was just a village with a tiny port on the right bank of the estuary where there lived fishermen, farmers, and a noble family or two. Nevertheless, the village did enjoy a special status (that of being known as a "Villa"), bestowed upon it in 1300 by the Lord of Biscay Diego López de Haro, known as "the Intruder," in order to protect the port and its first commercial undertakings from the fighting going on among the rivaling lords. But one of the most important privileges given to the city came in 1315 when Alfonso XI had the Camino de Santiago redirected a bit so that Bilbao would fall along the route. From this point on the growth of the city really began to take off, as trading increased with ports in England, the Mediterranean and the North of Europe and the number of shipyards grew as well. By the middle of the fifteenth century Bilbao was flourishing and changing its topography; it was in 1483 when the city increased radically in size and El Arenal emerged. Unfortunately, Bilbao has seen its share of fighting and war as well: the disturbances of 1631 caused by the state monopoly on salt; the "Matxinada," in 1717, riots caused by the attempt to establish customs houses in the Basque ports (which, thanks to local privilege, had been free of customs up till then); the French occupation; the War of Independence, with another occupation by the French; the First and Second Carlist Wars, where Bilbao (on the side of the liberals due to its business interests) becomes the prime objective; and of course, the Spanish Civil War of '36. With the arrival of industrialization in the mid-19th century, a new, none-too-poetic change begins to transform the city. It is reported that during the night one could see from a distance of many kilometers away the fires of the ovens that were forging iron into steel. Industrialization brought rapid growth to the city, both in terms of area and population, all of which resulted in the formation of what we now know as Greater Bilbao, the area encompassing the huge number of inhabitants living along the estuary. These inhabitants, many of which are immigrants from other parts of Spain, make up one of the largest centers of population in the Basque Lands. All of this meant that for a long time Bilbao was considered nothing but an industrial area with no touristic interest, a city of smoking chimneys and of an estuary where you could find anything except fish swimming in the water. But despite everything Bilbao has always had a special charm and we can find plenty of traces of former magnificent times, such as the Teatro Arriaga, Hospital Civil de Basurto, the Alhóndiga or the mansions and palaces of Neguri. In the Parque de Doña Casilda, if we use our imagination, we might be able to see the faultless nannies pushing majestic baby carriages, taking their charges for their daily walk. Then there are the many well-known cultural societies, such as "la Bilbaína", or the prestigious Universidad y Escuela Comercial de Deusto. Bilbao has always been an open, cultured and elegant city, one which has blessed us with musicians like Juan Crisóstomo Arriaga, authors such as Unamuno, and painters like Zuloaga.But there's not really so much left of that poor gray Bilbao, abused by industry and ignored by tourists. The crisis of the 80's, which left the whole city depressed and without direction, had the positive effect of obliging the citizens of Bilbao to think of new directions for their town, away from industry and towards other kinds of services. The Bilbao of today is growing in a new direction and, like the phoenix from the flames, it seems to be glowing with a new brilliance. The number of projects which have already been carried out or are currently in the making is astounding. Of course, the most spectacular to date has been the Guggenheim, designed by Frank O. Gehry and classified as one of the most fantastic pieces of avant-garde architecture of the 20th century. This museum, aside from bringing contemporary art right to our front door, has also brought a great number of visitors and tourists to the city. Another important project worth mentioning is the innovative metro line as conceived by Norman Foster. Other projects such as bridges, luxury hotels, trams, towers, and the cleaning of the estuary are the new face of a city in change, which is enlightening the spirit of Bilbao's inhabitants, who now see the future with new hope. But to speak of Bilbao we must speak of its inhabitants. The troubles of the area have not affected the happy character of the locals. A favorite past time of the Bilbaínos, as the inhabitants of the city are called, is to get together in the "txokos," private gastronomic societies, to indulge in the typical dishes of the area, which are very diverse and absolutely exquisite. Don't be surprised if you hear singing coming from the bars, or roars of "¡GOOOOL!" when the pride of Athletic Club Bilbao, the local football team, scores. The 'Bilbaínos' are famous for their hospitality, and a visitor to their land is made to feel at home. Places of interest Montero House: declared an Historic-Artistic monument, this building, constructed between 1901-1904, is popularly known as "Casa de Gaudí" on account of its resemblance to the Catalan artist's work. In its striking facade, there are many bay windows on the corner of the building with ledges in carved stone and wrought iron. Its four habitable apartments are today living quarters and offices. There are other buildings in Bilbao with similar architectural features, such as the Campos Eliseos theatre and the Ricardo Bastida wash-houses. Castle of Muñatones:  This rural castle in the medieval military style is situated in the San Martín district of the Muskiz municipality. Surrounded by a landscape of fields and marshes, the Muñatones castle was declared an Historic-Artistic monument in 1944 and was acquired four years later by the Statutory Deputation of Vizcaya which made itself responsible for is restoration. In 1968 the palace next to it was handed over to the State to be converted into a state-run hotel. Years later the oil company Petronor acquired the properties and took responsibility for their conservation. The castle's image corresponds fundamentally with that of a medieval fortification occupied during its beginnings by the Muñatones family and later by the Salazars. Among its main features stands out the exterior wall fitted with battlements whose main purpose was defensive. Its tower, today in a state of ruin, is large and solid, with 75 metres of 3-metre-thick wall remaining. This medieval fortress in the Somorrostro valley is well worth a visit. Sota Building: In Gran Vía, between Plaza Moyúa and Sagrado Corazón, is found the grand structure built in 1919 and occupied by the Sota family during its early days. One of the striking features of this magnificent building (an early example of luxurious residential architecture in the Bilbao of the 19th century) is its facade, with towers, arched galleries, pronounced eaves, turrets and pinnacles. It is a clear example of the regionalist tendencies and mountain influences that were evident in its creator's earlier work, the Atxuri station. Social drawing rooms and rooms formerly designed as family quarters are today partly used to house various offices. On the ground floor of the building are the gastronomic centre El Viandar de Sota and several important fashion outlets. Palace of Chávarri: Among the buildings of note around the Plaza Moyúa, halfway down Bilbao's Gran Vía, is the Palacio de Chávarri. This is a beautiful building by Belgian architect, Paul Ankar, and constructed in 1889 as a commission for businessman, Víctor Chávarri, who wanted it as a residence. The Palacio de Chávarri, Flemish neorealist in style and considered one of the most unusual examples of its kind in the city, combines colours and formal features that result in a beautiful building that today houses the Gobierno Civil de Vizcaya (Vizcayan Civil Government). Different windows and balconies, gables, staircases and pointed garrets form, all together, an interesting structure which deserves to be admired from any of its perspectives. Palace of Ibaigane: Built in 1920 by Gregorio Ibarreche, the Palacio de Ibaigane, houses one of the most loved and followed institutions in Vizcaya: the headquarters of the hundred-year-old Athletic Club de Bilbao. Initially intended to be the La Sota family's residence, and later to house the Vizcayan Military Government, today this building in the style of the palaces of the first Baroque, holds within its walls the secrets of the football club supported by thousands of Vizcayans. On its facade, notice the outstanding and popularly inspired architectural motifs, whose main characteristics are the framework of exposed brick, a short-arched entrance and the gables of the many projections. Palace of Olábarri: (or Palacete of the Independent Port of Bilbao) it is situated in one of the best known residential districts of Bilbao: the Paseo del Campo Volantín alongside the estuary. Built by the architect Julián de Zubizarreta in 1894, this palace was the residence during the 50's for the family of José María de Olábarri, an important businessman of the time. It is an admirable building in which French and English influences meet, as, for example, in its floor designed in an L shape, with noteworthy interior proportions. It was also occupied by the British Institute and since 1953 has been the headquarters of the Puerto Autónomo de Bilbao (Bilbao's Port Authority). Santa and Real House of the Mercy: It is just where one of the main roads into and out of Bilbao begins, close to the Plaza del Sagrado Corazón. Created and designed as a sanctuary for the destitute by the architect, Antonio de Goicoechea, in 1871, this immense building, was opened in 1872 by Amadeo de Saboya. The building is the fruit of a combination of neo-classical features, with the lineal layout of its facades and cupolas at its corners making for a sober building in whose front part there is a small and peaceful park. Very close to La Misericordia you'll find the Athletic Club de Bilbao's football stadium which was built in 1913. It is called San Mamés, but is popularly known as "La Catedral" (the Cathedral). Museum Guggenheim Bilbao:  Designed by the cabinet of architects of Frank Gehry, it was opened to the public in 1997 and lodges traveling exhibitions of work art pertaining to the Guggenheim foundation and exhibitions. In a moment the building was revealed like one of the most spectacular buildings to post-moder to us. The design of the museum and its construction follow the style and methods of Frank Gehry. As many of its previous works the main structure radically is carved following contours almost organic. The museum affirms not to contain one only flat surface in all its structure. Part of the building is crossed by a high bridge and the outside is covered by titanium plates. The building seen from the river pretends to have the form of a boat rendering tribute to the harbor city in which it registers. Their shining panels resemble the grudges of a fish remembering to us the influences of present organic forms in many of the works of Gehry. Sight from above nevertheless, the building has the one form nevertheless flor. For its design the equipment of Gehry intensely used simulations by computer of the structures necessary to maintain the building obtaining forms that had been impossible to make few decades before. Between that the museum dominates to the views of the zone from the level of the river its aspect from the superior level of the street is much more modest reason why it does not go off key with his surroundings of more traditional buildings. |
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